Malaysia and Singapore clash over hawker food culture

PETALING JAYA (August 23): Singapore’s bid to add their hawker culture to Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity has caused some backlash amongst Malaysians. 

Chef Wan, as reported by The Star, said that the move was “arrogant”, and showed a lack of confidence. 

“People who lack confidence in their food will go all out to do these things for recognition,” he said.

“It’s not necessary to announce to the world that you have this or that. By taking this route, it’s a bit of arrogant behaviour.

“Food is meant to be enjoyed by everyone and not for us to pick fights over who owns what. We already fight about everything else, such as territorial claims, oil and water.

“Now, it’s up to the level where they want to bring their hawker culture to the Unesco.

“I don’t think it’s wise for them to do this because it’ll create a lot of unhappiness among the people in terms of branding,” he said.

Celebrity chef Datuk Ismail Ahmad spoke about the contrasts between Malaysian hawker culture and the Singaporean.

“That’s the uniqueness of ours compared to theirs. Theirs is monotonous. Their hawker centres are beautiful but tasteless.

“Ours are very original and diverse. If you go to a hawker centre in Malaysia, the food is to die for because of our sensitivity in using fresh ingredients and efforts to sustain the originality of our dishes,” he said, as quoted by the daily.

Malaysians and Singaporeans have taken to social media to air their opinions on the matter.

The Star writes that in Malaysia, Facebook user Nathaniel Soo wrote about Singapore’s culture of booking tables using tissue papers at the hawker centres.

“Only thing Singaporeans should lay claim to are the tables they have choped (booked) with a packet of tissue paper (sic),” he wrote.

Another commenter, Abdullah Sfani said: “Claiming of food origin will go on and on and on with no end. For food’s sake, drop it and start filling your tummy with whatever you like and just be happy.”

Facebook user Damien Loh said both countries had very similar hawker food culture.

“Not wrong for them to claim the two dishes as theirs and Malaysians can also make the same claim. After all, our ancestors came from the same boats to these shores,” he wrote.

Singaporean Facebook commenter Audi Khalid said: “Malaysia doesn’t have anything much to be proud of the last twenty years so they’d jump on every little scrap to claim as theirs for some semblance of achievement or identity.”

“Malaysians always have an opinion about Singapore. They could also do the same if they want to,” wrote Penelope Chin.

EdgeProp.my recently put together a list of places to try the delectable Malaysian foods featured on the Lonely Planet's Ultimate Eatlist. Click here for Part 1, and click here for Part 2.